One of the smallest and least populated villages in France, Peyreleau sits perched on top of a rocky outcrop at the confluence of the gorges of the Tarn and the Jonte. These gorges divide the high limestone plateaux of the Cevennes into four distinct Causses, each with a separate identity. We had the chance to ride on each of them during our stay, and to spend many hours exploring the twisting geography of the small village we were staying in. There are so many steps, so many passages, so many different ways to get from A to B, that I never quite felt as if I knew the village at all. More than anything else, what impressed me most was the steps.