Day 49. Thursday July 19
Novigrad, Istrian Peninsula, Yugoslavia. 40 km. Total 2923
We leave the odorous site in search of somewhere to rest a while, visiting towns Portoroz and Umag in search of maps.
Nobody seems friendly, and we are threatened when we point out the tariff price is much cheaper than what we are being charged for two coffees.
A picnic lunch on the coast, after which we wander on a path leading across a field, reminding one of cliff tops at Moel-y-Berth. The exciting promise of blue, empty sea. At the end of the path there is a boy scout camp and a beach with cars and people. Return to lunch in the shade on sardines which seem as cheap as rubber bands and delicious and about the only thing most shops stock.
We have also bought maps – special flimsy Yugoslavian ones, not very detailed but they give an idea. We tried several sites and found them too expensive (they also look like Strangeways with the security) We had to settle for one of the big tourist sites in the end with thousands of people on it, the sea crowded with bobbling heads.
As we cycle through the site heads turn and stare – this continues as we set up the tent. Everyone who walks past is fascinated by our small tent and cycles. As night falls, I walk to the quiet sea through pale stubble rising gently to a horizon and a view of sea around the small isthmus I am on.