Asbyrgi Backpacking, Iceland

Tuesday 22 July 2014 Asbyrgi campsite

We take the bus to Dettifoss which is the most powerful waterfall in Europe, great tons of black water and spray mist, which is visible from miles away. After a change at the waterfall, our bus is exchanged for a transit van and the roads become rough gravel. Arriving at Asbyrgi, we find a large expanse of a flat place with a giant camp site, again with grass and trees, and a petrol station that provides everything else one might need; (beer, postcards, food, toilets, coffee)

At the tourist information we hear it being explained that many people have come here seeking the sun that is only shining in the North East of the country. This often deserted campsite is bursting with enormous agressive vehicles, called things like Super Challenger, Explorer Plus, with wheels as big as our tent.

It is hot and sunny, down in the great cliffed geographical rift of Asbyrgi, and there are showers and cycletourists, accordion music away in the trees where barbecue smoke wafts freely. Later we go to eat at the petrol station café and walk through the meadows, green and beautiful underneath the tall straight rifted cliffs and finally up onto the opposite side of the cliffs to a cairn where a tiny girl in pink skirt is mountain biking among the stones. Finally a nip of whiskey and into bed while all around are blonde families in woollen jumpers quietly eating and enjoying themselves. Tomorrow we start walking.