After hours of travelling, we notice that some of the gravel has moss on it, especially in the courses of small streams and puddles. We arrive a Nyiderlur where we have planned to camp a while in the wilderness; a barren featureless plateau with a couple of huts, a tattered flag whipping in the cold gale, dust flying until the rain starts. It doesn’t take us long to decide to dive back on the bus and continue to Landmannalaugar. The land, (the same grey undulating blanket of nothing) is now in mist, so there are shades of grey to see, – the lines of ridge