The Bec des Roces is the magical mysterious area of pinnacles and boulders that we walked through last summer in the rain and mist, where all we could see were the shadowy colourless outlines of these thin rock pinnacles leering out of the gloom above us all around. This time we were here in good weather and able to climb and see the pinnacles
There is some new climbing here which is not in our guide books, and we spent time trying to find it and in the process thoroughly exploring the nooks and crannies of this hidden valley.
Information about the routes from Planetmountain
On the East Face, there are three sectors of single pitches, perfect for the hot summer days, as they are in the shade from the mid day. There are 20 routes with difficulties ranging from 5b to 7a, up to 34 meters long, on vertical or slightly overhanging walls.
On the West Face the are longer trad climbs (up to three pitches), from III to V +. For these routes you need to integrate the gear and to abseil back down. All routes have their names written at the base.
Pay attention to some loose rock as the routes are new.
Special thanks to Bec de Roces mountain hut, ideal for a refreshments at the end of climbing, which provided some of the gear used to bolt the routes.
From Passo Campolongo take the chairlift to Rifugio Bec de Roces, or walk up the steep forest track (takes about 25 min). EAST FACE From the refuge Bec de Roces take path #636 to Rifugio Kostner al Vallon, leave this almost immediately at the first signpost, following a track to the right that leads to the east face of the towers (5 minutes).
The streets face east, receive the shade in the late morning. 70m rope and 15 quickdraws recommended. WEST FACE – multi-pitch routes From the refuge Bec de Roces take path #636 to Rifugio Kostner al Vallon, then follow the track between the pines trees to reach the base of the towers (10 minutes). The routes face south. Blays are boltes, some sections of the pitch are bolted, nevertheless take slings, nuts & friends