Friday 4 June 2004 Glen Brittle Cottage, Glen Brittle
2 days after attempt
Rain – can’t decide whether to climb the Cioch or go fast and light to recover the bags stashed at Bealach a Garbh Choire (with our bivvi gear in) Decide on fast and light, and jog up path, stomp up Sgumain Stone Shoot, over the awkward stoney bealach, all in the soaking mist, and descend to Coir a Grunnda, Find the bags up on the Bealach in a dyke feature.
Then to make the day more exciting, we scramble up the Dubhs, traverse below the TD gap, and scramble up Sgurr Alasdair – all my scrambling fears return and it is with a great deal of reluctance that I am persuaded to start up the black dripping chimney that leads to the summit. Dripping and slimy, I am afraid of it being too slippery and getting stuck in the chimney. After this we run with our gear back down the Sgumain Stone Chute to our cute cottage.
Saturday June 5 2004
We take the bus with all our gear from the cottage to the sligachan Hotel. We spend a while looking at the little museum of climbing artefacts and paintings they have made in an alcove, and after lunch jog with our rope and harnesses in small bags to see if we can find the start of the Sgurr nan Gillean scramble which has always eluded us. Up in the coire it is still rainy and mist shrouded, and nothing is getting any better, so we jog back again for revelries.