22 December 2008
The most popular long route on Mallorca is the spire-like ridge of Sa Gubia. Climbing it is a full day’s outing for most teams, including the long descent. Approach from Bunyola through a charming dried river bed alongside the grounds of the impressive Alfabia Blanca Hotel.
There are seven pitches of climbing followed by approximately the same distance of exposed scrambling to get the summit of the mountain, from where it is possible to easily walk off on tourist footpaths.
There is some old fixed gear but it is advisable to take a small rack consisting of medium wires and a few larger Friends. Also take lots of slings for the numerous threads high on the route.
Start at the base of the left-hand spur of the ridge by some red marks on the rock.
From the top of the climbing, we scrambled up the ridge to the summit.
On the summit